I seem to be one of the few people who don’t like the Past Patterns’ Polonaise. In place of it, I love this pattern. This is a bit more complicated; intermediate level experience is needed. The back of this polonaise is very attractive and it works for a large bustle. This pattern is available for larger bust sizes. I did add netting as interlining to the back bustle piece, which really helped my lightweight fabric to keep it’s shape. Instead of creating a free-form facing per the instructions, I lined all the front and bodice pieces with self fabric to hide the interlining and keep seams from showing when the wind lifts the lower front pieces. I thought the free-form facing idea was really annoying. Why not just add pattern pieces for this? I found that although markings were given to indicate where the back should be tacked to the inner ties, there were not enough “connections” to create the look I wanted. This was my preference; not an error in the pattern. I tacked the back and inner ties in a few more places and it was fine. Trim Tip: Made in size H, it took 10 yards of fringe to re-create the look of the picture with trim added to the sleeves & neck.
Rated 5 out of 5
Janet –
I recommend this pattern to anyone trying to do a Polonaise. I had thought of doing the Past Patterns version (Late 1880’s Polonaise with Walking Skirt 904), but had read mixed reviews. Since the event where I was planning to wear this garment was an oriental theme (Japonesque, Oct. 5, 2003), I kind of wanted the feeling of a coat.
The lining of the bustle was pretty easy and the use of ties to adjust the bustle is great, but I find I am still adjusting it on an almost daily basis. I also wish that the seam allowances were more than 1/2 “. The size of the seam allowances caused a lot of heavy bunching at the side tucks. On the inside it didn’t leave enough overhang (where the seams joined at the sides) to flatten and tack it. It created a ridge inside. I had to do a lot of fidgeting on the underside. I do like the effect of the side tucks. The garment took a few weekends of sewing and slowly doing hand work. I found that the shoulders seemed a bit wide, even though I followed the pattern adjustment sections. I did look at some books with the transitional lines. I was doing 1870’s. The Civil War/Victorian 1860’s still have that off the shoulder look. So, I wasn’t sure if it was just my body or the shoulders are meant to be wide. One pattern improvement I would suggest, is to indicate where the boning would best be placed. Much of the instructions are written out in detail. Hints on pros and cons of boning placement would help. I enjoyed making this and hope to make another in a lighter fabric. I feel that once you get to know the pattern, it will be easier the second time.
Rated 5 out of 5
Carmen –
I love the way this pattern goes together. I made it in a combination of navy blue and burgundy linen. I used TV 201 for the skirt and added a small ruffle at the hem (I did not have enough fabric left for a larger ruffle). I think it turned out well.
Rated 4 out of 5
Judith –
I like the bell sleeves, drape of the side pleats and the Basque back. I also like the sizing scheme used in the Truly Victorian patterns. I agree with other reviewers that using a front lacing may not be the best option for this garment. I recommend cutting four fronts instead of two with an additional half inch allowance where needed and sewing the front and front facing right sides together along the center front edge, neck, hem and side up to the armhole. Turn and press and you have a nicely finished edge. If the front flips up for some reason, it matches the outer fabric. This also solves the issue of a nice seam finish where the pleated portion of the front is seamed to the back. As always make a muslin firts and fit it carefully. I needed approximately 10 yards of trim to go around the front, neck, hem, back hem, Basque and sleeve hem.
Rated 4 out of 5
Hannah –
I used the 1873 Polonaise (TV410) to make the 1882-3 Dinner Dress from Patterns of Fashion 2. I had used the bodice section of the Polonaise before to create a basic block, so I knew how it fit. When I noticed the patten pieces were very similar, I knew I could whip one out in no time. I extended the center back and side back pieces of the Polonaise to create the fitted hips. The hem of the polonaise was tucked up and attached to the side front panel where it goes under the train section. The train section of the dinner dress is almost exactly the same size and shape as the bustle section of the polonaise. I shortened the sleeves to elbow length. Then I trimmed the whole with lace and ribbons, as in PoF. I made the dress with a black cut velvet flatlined with royal blue cotton broadcloth that I’d been saving for the polonaise. I trimmed it with royal blue and black laces, and royal blue grosgrain ribbon. It went together in three weeks of evening sewing. The skirt worn with it is one I already had from another outfit. I highly recommend this pattern, as it is very clear and goes together with minimum fuss. And, as you can see, it’s very flexible.
Rated 5 out of 5
Pamela –
This was my first Victorian pattern ever, and it went together beautifully, once I stopped being afraid of the instructions.
I agree with others that the 2″ wide lining in the front was utterly ridiculous, and I simply made lining pieces out of the front pattern, which worked beautifully. I actually put together this pattern (without trim) in three days for a costume party, and continued to add trim to it each successive time I wore it.
Warning: This takes up ridiculous amounts of trim! I believe I have 8 yards of black braid and 5-6 yards of beaded trim on the gown. Make sure you overestimate and buy extra trim so you don’t run out.
Lorraine –
I seem to be one of the few people who don’t like the Past Patterns’ Polonaise. In place of it, I love this pattern. This is a bit more complicated; intermediate level experience is needed. The back of this polonaise is very attractive and it works for a large bustle. This pattern is available for larger bust sizes. I did add netting as interlining to the back bustle piece, which really helped my lightweight fabric to keep it’s shape. Instead of creating a free-form facing per the instructions, I lined all the front and bodice pieces with self fabric to hide the interlining and keep seams from showing when the wind lifts the lower front pieces. I thought the free-form facing idea was really annoying. Why not just add pattern pieces for this? I found that although markings were given to indicate where the back should be tacked to the inner ties, there were not enough “connections” to create the look I wanted. This was my preference; not an error in the pattern. I tacked the back and inner ties in a few more places and it was fine. Trim Tip: Made in size H, it took 10 yards of fringe to re-create the look of the picture with trim added to the sleeves & neck.
Janet –
I recommend this pattern to anyone trying to do a Polonaise. I had thought of doing the Past Patterns version (Late 1880’s Polonaise with Walking Skirt 904), but had read mixed reviews. Since the event where I was planning to wear this garment was an oriental theme (Japonesque, Oct. 5, 2003), I kind of wanted the feeling of a coat.
The lining of the bustle was pretty easy and the use of ties to adjust the bustle is great, but I find I am still adjusting it on an almost daily basis. I also wish that the seam allowances were more than 1/2 “. The size of the seam allowances caused a lot of heavy bunching at the side tucks. On the inside it didn’t leave enough overhang (where the seams joined at the sides) to flatten and tack it. It created a ridge inside. I had to do a lot of fidgeting on the underside. I do like the effect of the side tucks. The garment took a few weekends of sewing and slowly doing hand work. I found that the shoulders seemed a bit wide, even though I followed the pattern adjustment sections. I did look at some books with the transitional lines. I was doing 1870’s. The Civil War/Victorian 1860’s still have that off the shoulder look. So, I wasn’t sure if it was just my body or the shoulders are meant to be wide. One pattern improvement I would suggest, is to indicate where the boning would best be placed. Much of the instructions are written out in detail. Hints on pros and cons of boning placement would help. I enjoyed making this and hope to make another in a lighter fabric. I feel that once you get to know the pattern, it will be easier the second time.
Carmen –
I love the way this pattern goes together. I made it in a combination of navy blue and burgundy linen. I used TV 201 for the skirt and added a small ruffle at the hem (I did not have enough fabric left for a larger ruffle). I think it turned out well.
Judith –
I like the bell sleeves, drape of the side pleats and the Basque back. I also like the sizing scheme used in the Truly Victorian patterns. I agree with other reviewers that using a front lacing may not be the best option for this garment. I recommend cutting four fronts instead of two with an additional half inch allowance where needed and sewing the front and front facing right sides together along the center front edge, neck, hem and side up to the armhole. Turn and press and you have a nicely finished edge. If the front flips up for some reason, it matches the outer fabric. This also solves the issue of a nice seam finish where the pleated portion of the front is seamed to the back. As always make a muslin firts and fit it carefully. I needed approximately 10 yards of trim to go around the front, neck, hem, back hem, Basque and sleeve hem.
Hannah –
I used the 1873 Polonaise (TV410) to make the 1882-3 Dinner Dress from Patterns of Fashion 2. I had used the bodice section of the Polonaise before to create a basic block, so I knew how it fit. When I noticed the patten pieces were very similar, I knew I could whip one out in no time. I extended the center back and side back pieces of the Polonaise to create the fitted hips. The hem of the polonaise was tucked up and attached to the side front panel where it goes under the train section. The train section of the dinner dress is almost exactly the same size and shape as the bustle section of the polonaise. I shortened the sleeves to elbow length. Then I trimmed the whole with lace and ribbons, as in PoF. I made the dress with a black cut velvet flatlined with royal blue cotton broadcloth that I’d been saving for the polonaise. I trimmed it with royal blue and black laces, and royal blue grosgrain ribbon. It went together in three weeks of evening sewing. The skirt worn with it is one I already had from another outfit. I highly recommend this pattern, as it is very clear and goes together with minimum fuss. And, as you can see, it’s very flexible.
Pamela –
This was my first Victorian pattern ever, and it went together beautifully, once I stopped being afraid of the instructions.
I agree with others that the 2″ wide lining in the front was utterly ridiculous, and I simply made lining pieces out of the front pattern, which worked beautifully. I actually put together this pattern (without trim) in three days for a costume party, and continued to add trim to it each successive time I wore it.
Warning: This takes up ridiculous amounts of trim! I believe I have 8 yards of black braid and 5-6 yards of beaded trim on the gown. Make sure you overestimate and buy extra trim so you don’t run out.