It’s a terrific pattern. It’s historically accurate and fits well. I’ve been looking at old photos a lot recently and I see this style over and over in the early 1860s. There are some minor variations. I’m eager to try this pattern again and modify some of the pieces to copy variations I’ve seen in old photos. A further report will be forthcoming. The part of the pattern I don’t understand is the under-sleeve. The dress has straight, close-fitting sleeves (perfectly correct, plenty of examples in old photos). Why then, include a full cut under-sleeve? It’s a good under-sleeve. I will use it with another gown, but the under-sleeve in this pattern will never fit under the gown sleeves; the gown sleeves are much too narrow. Was this a boo boo? It’s a mystery. The sleeves of the dress could be gathered and made full or the under-sleeves could be used with another dress. I cut my sleeves wider and gathered them into a wristband (copied this from an old photo).
Rated 5 out of 5
Gladys Campbell –
I made View B without the apron. This is an excellent pattern. It is not difficult, but there are a lot (really a lot) of pieces. It’s time-consuming just finding all the little pieces. A beginner would need help, but could make this dress. The result is lovely. The bodice fits well and the back is extremely attractive. I did change the sleeve. I cut a fuller sleeve and gathered it into a wristband.
Rated 4 out of 5
Judith Hollenberger –
I did not enjoy sewing this dress. It must just be me because the other reviewers did not have nearly the trouble I did. The directions were unclear and confusing. I wound up with the waistband cover too short and the waistband overlap and skirt opening in the wrong place. According to the pattern the buttons should be on the left side of the bodice (as you look at the person) and the skirt opening is on the right. The right side of the bodice is supposed to have the buttonholes and covers up the skirt placket opening. I wound up with my skirt placket opening on the left so I had to put the buttonholes on the left side of the bodice. It worked out OK.
Rated 5 out of 5
Linda Bryan –
I made size 16. The bodice lining is less generous than the bodice at gathered bustline. The dress has a built-in bustiness that is a giggle for me when I look in the mirror. I agree that the waist is not clearly explained. My biggest problem: I have small bust but big shoulders and ribcage. Even with corset, the front barely met. My solution: Splice on a piece of fashion fabric on the back of the left bodice that is wide enough to fill at least an extra inch across the front plus fold back again across the lining to add stability–roughly 3-4 inches wide. Lay it face down on the front left opening and sew it on using a minimal seam allowance. Iron the new piece flat and determine how much fabric is sufficient for an extension. Iron the fold of the extension back across lining and iron the folded-under raw edge. Hand stitch this facing to lining so that it lies graciously and looks intentional. I extended the right bodice front and lining out as far as possible across the chest, folded the front back in a minimal facing of roughly 1/4 inch and hand-sewed it over the lining, which I folded under almost 1/2 inch so that it didn’t show. Then sewed on plenty of hooks, hidden behind the right-side piece. The new left side piece acts as a curtain so nothing is gappy and no underclothes show. You will have to recut the bodice waistband longer, or make a new cover piece. Also: Make a proper fabric skirt waistband to sew the skirt to. Don’t use white tape. It’s bound to peek out.
Sally Norton –
It’s a terrific pattern. It’s historically accurate and fits well. I’ve been looking at old photos a lot recently and I see this style over and over in the early 1860s. There are some minor variations. I’m eager to try this pattern again and modify some of the pieces to copy variations I’ve seen in old photos. A further report will be forthcoming. The part of the pattern I don’t understand is the under-sleeve. The dress has straight, close-fitting sleeves (perfectly correct, plenty of examples in old photos). Why then, include a full cut under-sleeve? It’s a good under-sleeve. I will use it with another gown, but the under-sleeve in this pattern will never fit under the gown sleeves; the gown sleeves are much too narrow. Was this a boo boo? It’s a mystery. The sleeves of the dress could be gathered and made full or the under-sleeves could be used with another dress. I cut my sleeves wider and gathered them into a wristband (copied this from an old photo).
Gladys Campbell –
I made View B without the apron. This is an excellent pattern. It is not difficult, but there are a lot (really a lot) of pieces. It’s time-consuming just finding all the little pieces. A beginner would need help, but could make this dress. The result is lovely. The bodice fits well and the back is extremely attractive. I did change the sleeve. I cut a fuller sleeve and gathered it into a wristband.
Judith Hollenberger –
I did not enjoy sewing this dress. It must just be me because the other reviewers did not have nearly the trouble I did. The directions were unclear and confusing. I wound up with the waistband cover too short and the waistband overlap and skirt opening in the wrong place. According to the pattern the buttons should be on the left side of the bodice (as you look at the person) and the skirt opening is on the right. The right side of the bodice is supposed to have the buttonholes and covers up the skirt placket opening. I wound up with my skirt placket opening on the left so I had to put the buttonholes on the left side of the bodice. It worked out OK.
Linda Bryan –
I made size 16. The bodice lining is less generous than the bodice at gathered bustline. The dress has a built-in bustiness that is a giggle for me when I look in the mirror. I agree that the waist is not clearly explained. My biggest problem: I have small bust but big shoulders and ribcage. Even with corset, the front barely met. My solution: Splice on a piece of fashion fabric on the back of the left bodice that is wide enough to fill at least an extra inch across the front plus fold back again across the lining to add stability–roughly 3-4 inches wide. Lay it face down on the front left opening and sew it on using a minimal seam allowance. Iron the new piece flat and determine how much fabric is sufficient for an extension. Iron the fold of the extension back across lining and iron the folded-under raw edge. Hand stitch this facing to lining so that it lies graciously and looks intentional. I extended the right bodice front and lining out as far as possible across the chest, folded the front back in a minimal facing of roughly 1/4 inch and hand-sewed it over the lining, which I folded under almost 1/2 inch so that it didn’t show. Then sewed on plenty of hooks, hidden behind the right-side piece. The new left side piece acts as a curtain so nothing is gappy and no underclothes show. You will have to recut the bodice waistband longer, or make a new cover piece. Also: Make a proper fabric skirt waistband to sew the skirt to. Don’t use white tape. It’s bound to peek out.