Confusing. The layout instructions have a pocket lining, but no pattern piece or instructions for a pocket. The front cover picture makes it look like the front does not close and there are no markings for buttonholes or buttons on the pattern piece, but the Embellishments instructions says to make buttonholes and buttons as if double breasted. Whether the finished coat should be open with a gap (like modern tailcoats) or should close double breasted is a big difference when fitting and sewing. All sizes are drafted with the same length; no proportional increased length for larger sizes. Not sure what height person this was drafted for so hard to tell whether a certain size is going to need to be shortened or lengthened. Collar is odd with darts to make roll. Sew cut out portions on collar into darts. Attach collar side without dart to body (no join notches or markings so I attached wrong side of collar to body first time).
Pattern layout and instructions may have been recycled from a previous pattern and may not match exactly with this coat.
Called Reconstructing History for help. Kass returned the phone call within the hour. She said that the pattern is cut to close double breasted, but that historically men wore them too small so that they would open in front to show the waistcoat. I am not convinced that this coat pattern is cut to button closed.
Coat in photo was altered to fit a woman and breast pocket added.
Kim Yasuda –
Confusing. The layout instructions have a pocket lining, but no pattern piece or instructions for a pocket. The front cover picture makes it look like the front does not close and there are no markings for buttonholes or buttons on the pattern piece, but the Embellishments instructions says to make buttonholes and buttons as if double breasted. Whether the finished coat should be open with a gap (like modern tailcoats) or should close double breasted is a big difference when fitting and sewing. All sizes are drafted with the same length; no proportional increased length for larger sizes. Not sure what height person this was drafted for so hard to tell whether a certain size is going to need to be shortened or lengthened. Collar is odd with darts to make roll. Sew cut out portions on collar into darts. Attach collar side without dart to body (no join notches or markings so I attached wrong side of collar to body first time).
Pattern layout and instructions may have been recycled from a previous pattern and may not match exactly with this coat.
Called Reconstructing History for help. Kass returned the phone call within the hour. She said that the pattern is cut to close double breasted, but that historically men wore them too small so that they would open in front to show the waistcoat. I am not convinced that this coat pattern is cut to button closed.
Coat in photo was altered to fit a woman and breast pocket added.