As with my other experience with this company, the directions were pretty sketchy and I found myself spending time figuring things out. The most disturbing thing was that the drawing with the step collar is not how it makes up. I made both versions and they both open low like the drawing of the shawl collar vest. The chest pocket is also a bit low. Their technique for the pocket welts leaves something to be desired. I will do it my own way next time. Otherwise, it fit nicely without alterations.
Rated 4 out of 5
Linda Bryan –
Not recommended for an active man.
I first made 42 size–very tight, too snug at armholes, yet paunches out. Also, directions are unnecessarily hard for beginners.
Some fixes:
To enlarge armholes, I made a dot on pattern on front armhole opening–out 2 inches on a 45 degree diagonal from the underarm point. Then I redrew the armhole curve so that it begins higher on chest, passes through the new spot, and meets side seam 1.25 inch lower. Did same on pattern for back of armhole, being even more generous in enlarging the curve. This worked.
I increased girth at least an inch, and straightened the side seams to remove paunch. One of my early prototypes shows an improvised fix: inserted a long vertical rectangle from underarm to hem at each side, producing a second side seam. (Pieces about 2″ wide included tiny seam allowances.) Not too noticeable and it salvaged my investment in pricey brocade.
Don’t believe envelope drawing. Both collar styles are the same length, despite drawing, so redraw the stepped collar longer. Envelope says purchase 6 buttons but drawing disagrees. (Okay to buy 6 mediums, although 7 or 8 smaller buttons might be nice.) Drawing does not show double-pointed waistline option so draw it in with dotted lines.
Straighten pocket positions so they’re parallel with each other and waistline. Make welt for upper pocket that fits smaller slit length.
For warm weather use, modify back by omitting upper layer of fabric. (Just use lining fabric–face or bind upper edge and hem the lower edge before sandwiching the back into side seams. Handstitch side seams?)
Lisa VandenBerghe –
As with my other experience with this company, the directions were pretty sketchy and I found myself spending time figuring things out. The most disturbing thing was that the drawing with the step collar is not how it makes up. I made both versions and they both open low like the drawing of the shawl collar vest. The chest pocket is also a bit low. Their technique for the pocket welts leaves something to be desired. I will do it my own way next time. Otherwise, it fit nicely without alterations.
Linda Bryan –
Not recommended for an active man.
I first made 42 size–very tight, too snug at armholes, yet paunches out. Also, directions are unnecessarily hard for beginners.
Some fixes: