The fit over the hips must be smooth so it is important to check (and recheck) your measurements. I had to redo it a couple of times to get the smooth fit. I’m not sure if the problem was me or the pattern. My advice on doing the hip section is to allow extra time, go slowly and have patience. You must get a smooth fit in order to create the proper foundation for your 1890’s skirts. The finished petticoat is very nice and such a useful item to have in the closet.
Rated 5 out of 5
Andrea Cesari –
I cut this in a size 22 and made things good and complicated for myself by using the pointed bodice from one view with the round neck (with high collar) of another. I also curved the center back seam slightly for a better fit. I then shortened the bodice by an inch and sewed some seams at 1/2″ and others at 5/8″. I lengthened the plain coat sleeves by an inch (which was probably a little too much.) The pattern responded beautifully to all these alterations and went together correctly. The front darts fit well. I thought that the directions for a plain center-front closing were a bit sketchy. The assumption seemed to be that most makers would opt for some sort of front drapery that would cover the front opening. If you want a very plain front, you’ll need to extend the front pieces to make over and under laps. It would not be hard to do. For the most part, I ignored the instructions in favor of using the Dover Publication Victorian Dressmaking Techniques, which has a lot of very useful information about fitting and sewing waists.
Rated 3 out of 5
Monique Motyl –
What an easy pattern to work with. It goes together quickly and easily. I just moved along at a rapid pace and was surprised at how well everything came together. The waist fits beautifully. I only have one small admonition. In grading to the larger sizes, the patterns grow too much in length. Make a muslin and check if you need to shorten the bodice.
Sally Norton –
The fit over the hips must be smooth so it is important to check (and recheck) your measurements. I had to redo it a couple of times to get the smooth fit. I’m not sure if the problem was me or the pattern. My advice on doing the hip section is to allow extra time, go slowly and have patience. You must get a smooth fit in order to create the proper foundation for your 1890’s skirts. The finished petticoat is very nice and such a useful item to have in the closet.
Andrea Cesari –
I cut this in a size 22 and made things good and complicated for myself by using the pointed bodice from one view with the round neck (with high collar) of another. I also curved the center back seam slightly for a better fit. I then shortened the bodice by an inch and sewed some seams at 1/2″ and others at 5/8″. I lengthened the plain coat sleeves by an inch (which was probably a little too much.) The pattern responded beautifully to all these alterations and went together correctly. The front darts fit well. I thought that the directions for a plain center-front closing were a bit sketchy. The assumption seemed to be that most makers would opt for some sort of front drapery that would cover the front opening. If you want a very plain front, you’ll need to extend the front pieces to make over and under laps. It would not be hard to do. For the most part, I ignored the instructions in favor of using the Dover Publication Victorian Dressmaking Techniques, which has a lot of very useful information about fitting and sewing waists.
Monique Motyl –
What an easy pattern to work with. It goes together quickly and easily. I just moved along at a rapid pace and was surprised at how well everything came together. The waist fits beautifully. I only have one small admonition. In grading to the larger sizes, the patterns grow too much in length. Make a muslin and check if you need to shorten the bodice.