This was my first effort at Folkwear Patterns, and I very much liked the way the dress came together, although IMO it looks quite different from the illustration. I suspect this dress’s appearance will vary significantly according to the fabric choice. It’s not intuitively obvious how the pieces fit together, but if you follow the directions, it works. A couple of tips: First, be very careful in choosing the material. It has to have enough body not to sag under its own weight (most of the dress has two and often three layers of fabric, all of which hangs from the neckline/shoulders) but enough drape not to appear too bulky, as the dress measures approx. 60″ around before belting. If I were to make it again, I’d go with a medium-weight silk, or perhaps a cotton batiste (good choice for less-experienced sewers). Second, be very careful handling the bias-cut pieces because if they stretch at all the dress won’t lay correctly. I suggest stay-stitching the bias edges, although the directions don’t mention this. Third, definitely hand- or glue-baste the overdress where it attaches near the neckline so it is nice and flat and won’t shift when you machine-stitch it. One last note for those who loathe hand-sewing: because of the sack-like construction, the hem MUST be hand-sewn.
Rated 3 out of 5
Sarah Gilbert –
This was my first effort at Folkwear Patterns, and I very much liked the way the dress came together, although IMO it looks quite different from the illustration. I suspect this dress’s appearance will vary significantly according to the fabric choice. It’s not intuitively obvious how the pieces fit together, but if you follow the directions, it works. A couple of tips: First, be very careful in choosing the material. It has to have enough body not to sag under its own weight (most of the dress has two and often three layers of fabric, all of which hangs from the neckline/shoulders) but enough drape not to appear too bulky, as the dress measures approx. 60″ around before belting. If I were to make it again, I’d go with a medium-weight silk, or perhaps a cotton batiste (good choice for less-experienced sewers). Second, be very careful handling the bias-cut pieces because if they stretch at all the dress won’t lay correctly. I suggest stay-stitching the bias edges, although the directions don’t mention this. Third, definitely hand- or glue-baste the overdress where it attaches near the neckline so it is nice and flat and won’t shift when you machine-stitch it. One last note for those who loathe hand-sewing: because of the sack-like construction, the hem MUST be hand-sewn.
Karen McWilliams –
This was my first effort at Folkwear Patterns, and I very much liked the way the dress came together, although IMO it looks quite different from the illustration. I suspect this dress’s appearance will vary significantly according to the fabric choice. It’s not intuitively obvious how the pieces fit together, but if you follow the directions, it works. A couple of tips: First, be very careful in choosing the material. It has to have enough body not to sag under its own weight (most of the dress has two and often three layers of fabric, all of which hangs from the neckline/shoulders) but enough drape not to appear too bulky, as the dress measures approx. 60″ around before belting. If I were to make it again, I’d go with a medium-weight silk, or perhaps a cotton batiste (good choice for less-experienced sewers). Second, be very careful handling the bias-cut pieces because if they stretch at all the dress won’t lay correctly. I suggest stay-stitching the bias edges, although the directions don’t mention this. Third, definitely hand- or glue-baste the overdress where it attaches near the neckline so it is nice and flat and won’t shift when you machine-stitch it. One last note for those who loathe hand-sewing: because of the sack-like construction, the hem MUST be hand-sewn.
Sarah Gilbert –
This was my first effort at Folkwear Patterns, and I very much liked the way the dress came together, although IMO it looks quite different from the illustration. I suspect this dress’s appearance will vary significantly according to the fabric choice. It’s not intuitively obvious how the pieces fit together, but if you follow the directions, it works. A couple of tips: First, be very careful in choosing the material. It has to have enough body not to sag under its own weight (most of the dress has two and often three layers of fabric, all of which hangs from the neckline/shoulders) but enough drape not to appear too bulky, as the dress measures approx. 60″ around before belting. If I were to make it again, I’d go with a medium-weight silk, or perhaps a cotton batiste (good choice for less-experienced sewers). Second, be very careful handling the bias-cut pieces because if they stretch at all the dress won’t lay correctly. I suggest stay-stitching the bias edges, although the directions don’t mention this. Third, definitely hand- or glue-baste the overdress where it attaches near the neckline so it is nice and flat and won’t shift when you machine-stitch it. One last note for those who loathe hand-sewing: because of the sack-like construction, the hem MUST be hand-sewn.