Make Your Own Ribbon Watch Chain

by Kathe Gust

During the 18th century, watches became an indispensable accessory for both men and women. In menswear of the period, the trouser pocket for watch storage was called a “fob” and the decorative attachment to the watch was called a “chain”. Even today, many denim jeans have fob pockets, but those are actually easier to access than Georgian and Regency era pockets, which were just a slit near the waistband of the trousers.

18th century gentlemen wore watch chains attached to their timepieces to make it easier to check the time without having to root around in those tiny pockets. It’s not difficult to slip a watch in there, but getting it out again can be much harder! The attached watch chain would hang out of the pocket making it easy to remove the watch.

Ladies also wore watch chains, partly because watches were valuable, and partly because the “chains” could be made very decorative.

Many, perhaps most, 18th century watch chains were not really chains at all as they became during later eras. They consisted of ribbons, tassels and other passementerie and very few have survived outside of portraits or fashion plate illustrations.

I prefer to use a fancy ribbon such as a jacquard weave to make these, though plain ribbons like grosgrain will work as well. I’ve made several of them based on the colors of my husband’s suits and vests. He sometimes wears more than one at a time, which was a thing back then as you can see in one of the illustrations.

To make one you will need:

• 7 1/2 inches of 1 1/4 inch trim or ribbon – This length is for a adult about 5’6 to 5’8” tall. For children or shorter adults it can be shorter, for very tall adults longer. You can also use a plain 1 ¼ inch ribbon with a thinner trim or ribbon stitched down the center. The center one in the trio of finished ones was made that way.
• A charm or other small thing such as a seal, pendant, nice polished stone, small compass, lover’s eye, portrait, etc.
• Two multi-strand necklace connectors – I use 7 strand size to match the 1 1/4 inch ribbon. These will be your end pieces.
• Two to four small jump rings. How many you need depends on the way your charm and watch hang.
• A small clasp, or miniature fishing swivel clip.
• Needle and thread to match your ribbon or trim.
• Fray Check or other glue (optional).
• A couple pairs of needle nosed jewelry pliers for attaching the jump rings and charm.

Instructions for assembly:

1. If you are using Fray Check, treat both ends of your trim and let that dry before you continue.
2. Fold the trim under to make a neat unraveled edge at both ends.

3. Sew on the connectors with the multiple loops on the trim pieces on the front at each end.

4. Use a jump ring or two to hang the charm off the bottom end piece so that it faces front.

4. Use a jump ring to attach the clasp or swivel to the top end piece where you will put your watch, etc.
5. If you have a watch (or compass or key or lover’s eye or whatever) attach it to the clasp or swivel.  If you don’t have anything to attach, just use a safety pin to pin the top out of sight on the trousers behind the edge of the vest.

For more reading on watch chains in the Georgian and Regency eras, check out this informative blog post on the subject: https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2014/04/12/keeping-track-of-time-georgian-watch-chains-equipages-fobs-and-chatelaines/