For beginning through advanced sewers. I went with the pagoda-sleeved bodice and ignored their recommended trimmings entirely. Instead I trimmed it quite simply myself with a handmade cord and tassels.
Rated 4 out of 5
Rachel Franklin –
Recommended if you’re not concerned with authenticity.
This pattern made up very well, and fits well. However, there were a few things that I noticed during construction that weren’t authentic. 1) The under-sleeves: the under-sleeves are actually full sleeves that are sewn into the arms-eye, under the over-sleeves. To be authentic, you would need to cut off the top, curved part of the sleeve and either sew a casing for elastic or drawstring, or whip-stitch the top of the sleeve to the lining of the over-sleeve. 2) The zipper in the skirt is not authentic, but we all know that. I used Past Patterns #700 pleated skirt, with 9 panels instead of 7, for this dress instead of the skirt included with this pattern. I added a placket in the back of the skirt instead of a zipper. The dress does fit well, and works especially well for someone without a corset. Melodie is wearing the dress that Rachel made, minus the under-sleeves (too hot for dancing).
Rated 4 out of 5
Dawn Duperault –
I used this pattern for the bodice of my 1893 dress (and used other patterns for the sleeve, collar, and skirt). I found that it made up well and fit exceptionally well in my size. I added boning to the inside seams to keep it from crumpling. The only problem I had with the pattern is that the number of buttons they tell you to buy is not the number you will use if you follow the directions. You need more than the patterns says if you will make all the fabric flowers.
Rated 5 out of 5
Margaret Vallas –
View A – It makes a wonderful 1860’s walking dress. However, I changed out the skirt zipper for hooks and eyes. I also found that, for the well-endowed lady, buttons and loops didn’t work in the front as well as hidden hooks and eyes (with the buttons just for show). This pattern worked wonderfully with polyester taffeta, and was quick and easy to make. Fits over a hoop skirt for me, but someone taller might need to make the skirt pieces longer for it. The rosettes weren’t that difficult to make (just time-consuming) and I only put them on the sleeves, as I have seen in period pictures.
Rated 3 out of 5
Rachel MacLeod –
I found this to be very difficult for a beginning sewer. The pattern is simply not easy to read through, relying heavily on pictures that you are required to interpret. Perhaps I am naive, but I prefer a patter that states in the text “Sew piece one and two together with a basting stitch.” The pattern shows a collar attached to the top of the dress. Don’t, in larger sizes, the collar comes out poorly. The flowers on dress A are simply silly. Good points: The jacket does some nice tricks with turning inside out, so there is very little hemming. Once you understand it, you can put it together in about a week. It doesn’t use an exorbitant amount of fabric. Note: If you are using it for larger sizes, the pattern is very hard to fit for a generous bust. Five pattern pieces (cut twice) are just not enough to account for curves because so much had to be done just to keep seams even.
Ariyana Kylstram –
For beginning through advanced sewers. I went with the pagoda-sleeved bodice and ignored their recommended trimmings entirely. Instead I trimmed it quite simply myself with a handmade cord and tassels.
Rachel Franklin –
Recommended if you’re not concerned with authenticity.
This pattern made up very well, and fits well. However, there were a few things that I noticed during construction that weren’t authentic. 1) The under-sleeves: the under-sleeves are actually full sleeves that are sewn into the arms-eye, under the over-sleeves. To be authentic, you would need to cut off the top, curved part of the sleeve and either sew a casing for elastic or drawstring, or whip-stitch the top of the sleeve to the lining of the over-sleeve. 2) The zipper in the skirt is not authentic, but we all know that. I used Past Patterns #700 pleated skirt, with 9 panels instead of 7, for this dress instead of the skirt included with this pattern. I added a placket in the back of the skirt instead of a zipper. The dress does fit well, and works especially well for someone without a corset. Melodie is wearing the dress that Rachel made, minus the under-sleeves (too hot for dancing).
Dawn Duperault –
I used this pattern for the bodice of my 1893 dress (and used other patterns for the sleeve, collar, and skirt). I found that it made up well and fit exceptionally well in my size. I added boning to the inside seams to keep it from crumpling. The only problem I had with the pattern is that the number of buttons they tell you to buy is not the number you will use if you follow the directions. You need more than the patterns says if you will make all the fabric flowers.
Margaret Vallas –
View A – It makes a wonderful 1860’s walking dress. However, I changed out the skirt zipper for hooks and eyes. I also found that, for the well-endowed lady, buttons and loops didn’t work in the front as well as hidden hooks and eyes (with the buttons just for show). This pattern worked wonderfully with polyester taffeta, and was quick and easy to make. Fits over a hoop skirt for me, but someone taller might need to make the skirt pieces longer for it. The rosettes weren’t that difficult to make (just time-consuming) and I only put them on the sleeves, as I have seen in period pictures.
Rachel MacLeod –
I found this to be very difficult for a beginning sewer. The pattern is simply not easy to read through, relying heavily on pictures that you are required to interpret. Perhaps I am naive, but I prefer a patter that states in the text “Sew piece one and two together with a basting stitch.” The pattern shows a collar attached to the top of the dress. Don’t, in larger sizes, the collar comes out poorly. The flowers on dress A are simply silly. Good points: The jacket does some nice tricks with turning inside out, so there is very little hemming. Once you understand it, you can put it together in about a week. It doesn’t use an exorbitant amount of fabric. Note: If you are using it for larger sizes, the pattern is very hard to fit for a generous bust. Five pattern pieces (cut twice) are just not enough to account for curves because so much had to be done just to keep seams even.