Very good pattern with much more detail in the instructions that those that come with the custom patterns she makes. I especially liked the way each pattern comes in ALL SIZES on heavy paper stock that doesn’t tear easily like tissue patterns do. She uses her traditional 19th century measuring system to help you get an almost custom fit from the pattern pieces enclosed. By analyzing your measurements, you combine various sizes’ pattern pieces to get a closer match to YOUR actual shape. And, an added bonus, modifications for bust cup size alterations are ON THE PATTERN – yeah! The only problem I had with this pattern was that I tend to make rather aggressive bustles. Although this Cuirass was supposed to fit over a bustle, it did not fit over the one I had made for Kim. It fit perfectly to the waist, but I had to add to the flare from the waist past the hip. Not a big deal, but thank heavens I made a muslin! Kim Burnham is shown wearing the bodice Lorraine made in the photo on the right. The skirt of this gown was made from Old Worlde Enterprises 1880’s Bustle Ballgown 882.
Rated 5 out of 5
Kendra –
I made the high square neck and curved V hemline. The pattern pieces are printed on heavy paper and the instructions were clear. I forgot when fitting to leave an additional 1-2″ to be taken up by boning, and ended up having to add a placket to cover the front closure. I didn’t have any problems fitting the back over my bustle. I didn’t want any puffiness to the sleeves and so recut them as straight sleeves. I originally thought it was my fault that the bodice was too small around the bust, but after attending a workshop put on by the creators of these patterns at Costume College, I’ve found that they expect you to measure your bust not parallel to the floor all the way around, but angling up about 1″ across the shoulder blades. Now, who would know this I’m not sure. They women mentioned they often get the comment that this is consistent problem of the bust fit being too small. Hopefully, they will revise future patterns. The moral is: always make a muslin.
Rated 4 out of 5
Lisa –
This took a bit of work to alter to fit and I am going to take up the shoulders more. I traced the size I wanted onto tracing paper and made the initial alterations there. I made a muslin and used it as interlining when I was done. I made the sleeves a little smaller, but otherwise followed the pattern. The back came together nicely, after I shortened the back length; it was the front I had to adjust dramatically. I made an aggressive late-period bustle, but the bodice fit over it ok. I didn’t have spiral boning, so I skipped the boning in the back curved seams, but it seems to lay fine. The instructions are pretty basic, so having a knowledge of dressmaking techniques helps. I hand-stitched the button holes and made the Victorian Star needle-lace buttons in the book 50 Heirloom Buttons to Make.
Rated 5 out of 5
Dianne –
This pattern has become my basic for-all-periods-start-with-this-one pattern. I have sketched in neck and waist lines from Regency to 1900 on this pattern.
I am not easy to fit but, the size 28 needs little adjustment to fit me like a glove. I have yet to deal with one thing. I am narrow-shouldered and there tends to be a gap or buldge just back of the top of the shoulder on the arm hole. When I use a sleeve (that is, move my arm) it is not noticeable.
I made up the fashion fabric allowing extra inches in front to give a hefty turn under and made an identical lining. This allowed me choices later in construction since I couldn’t make up my mind about anything. Hence, all the trim piled on top of this gown.
If it was my first time out on this pattern, I would have done the lining first and basted it, then used it as a pattern. But it is now tried-and-true so I cut it out with the high neck and then tried it on and sketched in the neckline I wanted. Because of the number of seams, it is easy to make modifications. I added a deep box pleat onto the center back seam down at the ‘tail’.
Lastly I crocheted LOTS of trim and put almost all of it on the gown. I have since removed all but the yellow. I will next try a little soft green trim here and there.
Rated 5 out of 5
Carmen –
I am a fan of the Truly Victorian patterns. I started this bustle dinner suit last summer (2002). I got the last 7 yards of this beautiful pale yellow stripe batiste on sale. I wanted to make this suit but got busy with other projects. I cut the suit out and put it away until now. I used the Cuirass Bodice #460 pattern for the bodice. I had to adjust the neck-line a bit but, that was minor. Other than the neck-line, the pattern was perfect
Rated 5 out of 5
Catherine –
I was pleasantly surprised at how well this pattern went together. I made it up in a single weekend, and I am not a particularly expert seamstress. The fit was much better than the previous Victorian bodice patterns I have tried, and I feel that if I had had more time to make adjustments, I could have gotten the fit perfect even though I was fitting the bodice on myself without assistance.
Lorraine –
Very good pattern with much more detail in the instructions that those that come with the custom patterns she makes. I especially liked the way each pattern comes in ALL SIZES on heavy paper stock that doesn’t tear easily like tissue patterns do. She uses her traditional 19th century measuring system to help you get an almost custom fit from the pattern pieces enclosed. By analyzing your measurements, you combine various sizes’ pattern pieces to get a closer match to YOUR actual shape. And, an added bonus, modifications for bust cup size alterations are ON THE PATTERN – yeah! The only problem I had with this pattern was that I tend to make rather aggressive bustles. Although this Cuirass was supposed to fit over a bustle, it did not fit over the one I had made for Kim. It fit perfectly to the waist, but I had to add to the flare from the waist past the hip. Not a big deal, but thank heavens I made a muslin! Kim Burnham is shown wearing the bodice Lorraine made in the photo on the right. The skirt of this gown was made from Old Worlde Enterprises 1880’s Bustle Ballgown 882.
Kendra –
I made the high square neck and curved V hemline. The pattern pieces are printed on heavy paper and the instructions were clear. I forgot when fitting to leave an additional 1-2″ to be taken up by boning, and ended up having to add a placket to cover the front closure. I didn’t have any problems fitting the back over my bustle. I didn’t want any puffiness to the sleeves and so recut them as straight sleeves. I originally thought it was my fault that the bodice was too small around the bust, but after attending a workshop put on by the creators of these patterns at Costume College, I’ve found that they expect you to measure your bust not parallel to the floor all the way around, but angling up about 1″ across the shoulder blades. Now, who would know this I’m not sure. They women mentioned they often get the comment that this is consistent problem of the bust fit being too small. Hopefully, they will revise future patterns. The moral is: always make a muslin.
Lisa –
This took a bit of work to alter to fit and I am going to take up the shoulders more. I traced the size I wanted onto tracing paper and made the initial alterations there. I made a muslin and used it as interlining when I was done. I made the sleeves a little smaller, but otherwise followed the pattern. The back came together nicely, after I shortened the back length; it was the front I had to adjust dramatically. I made an aggressive late-period bustle, but the bodice fit over it ok. I didn’t have spiral boning, so I skipped the boning in the back curved seams, but it seems to lay fine. The instructions are pretty basic, so having a knowledge of dressmaking techniques helps. I hand-stitched the button holes and made the Victorian Star needle-lace buttons in the book 50 Heirloom Buttons to Make.
Dianne –
This pattern has become my basic for-all-periods-start-with-this-one pattern. I have sketched in neck and waist lines from Regency to 1900 on this pattern.
I am not easy to fit but, the size 28 needs little adjustment to fit me like a glove. I have yet to deal with one thing. I am narrow-shouldered and there tends to be a gap or buldge just back of the top of the shoulder on the arm hole. When I use a sleeve (that is, move my arm) it is not noticeable.
I made up the fashion fabric allowing extra inches in front to give a hefty turn under and made an identical lining. This allowed me choices later in construction since I couldn’t make up my mind about anything. Hence, all the trim piled on top of this gown.
If it was my first time out on this pattern, I would have done the lining first and basted it, then used it as a pattern. But it is now tried-and-true so I cut it out with the high neck and then tried it on and sketched in the neckline I wanted. Because of the number of seams, it is easy to make modifications. I added a deep box pleat onto the center back seam down at the ‘tail’.
Lastly I crocheted LOTS of trim and put almost all of it on the gown. I have since removed all but the yellow. I will next try a little soft green trim here and there.
Carmen –
I am a fan of the Truly Victorian patterns. I started this bustle dinner suit last summer (2002). I got the last 7 yards of this beautiful pale yellow stripe batiste on sale. I wanted to make this suit but got busy with other projects. I cut the suit out and put it away until now. I used the Cuirass Bodice #460 pattern for the bodice. I had to adjust the neck-line a bit but, that was minor. Other than the neck-line, the pattern was perfect
Catherine –
I was pleasantly surprised at how well this pattern went together. I made it up in a single weekend, and I am not a particularly expert seamstress. The fit was much better than the previous Victorian bodice patterns I have tried, and I feel that if I had had more time to make adjustments, I could have gotten the fit perfect even though I was fitting the bodice on myself without assistance.