The pattern pieces went together very smoothly however, a beginning sewer may be frustrated by the very small number of notches that help ensure proper match up. If you are familiar with Truly Victorian patterns, please be aware that this is drafted to fit VERY LOOSELY to the body.
I’ve made up countless Truly Victorian patterns. They are generally very well fitted. I rarely bother with a muslin anymore because I know how to make TV patterns fit me.
I assumed (my error) this gown had the same standard TV fit. I just whipped it out of the fashion fabric. I ended up taking it in on all the seams and darts to achieve what I liked in a fitted line. If you want a loose tea gown — this is it. If you want a more fitted gown, make a muslin first and plan ahead to make alterations. Other than tailoring the fit, the only changes I made were to opt for the 3/4 sleeves and add several layers of lace trim. Incidently, because it is so loosely fitted, you can put a small bustle pad (about the size of a tiny pillow) underneath and it still lays flat across the back.
I have a few construction comments. These are not flaws in the pattern but, rather flaws between the chair, cutting table and sewing machine. I wanted a loose flowing look for this gown so I selected a very floppy, lightweight silk/rayon. It was a great idea. It was also impossible to work with. I think we often forget that ilk in the 1880s was very tightly woven and had a stiffer hand than any silk we have today (except maybe Dupioni which is a modern weave and not appropriate for the 19th century).
What I selected required a stiff interlining to keep enough shape in the top part of the gown to recall even a hint of the pattern piece’s shape.
My construction advice to other sewers is to cut your lining and interlining without the Watteau back. This will eliminate bunching. With three layers of fabric, double pleated, the end result looked like I’d developed a hunchback. The flowing nature of the fabric was completely lost. And, it was agony to sew through all those layers. I resorted to hand sewing most of the pleats down to the waist.
I would use this pattern again but, would select a medium weight fabric.
Lorraine –
The pattern pieces went together very smoothly however, a beginning sewer may be frustrated by the very small number of notches that help ensure proper match up. If you are familiar with Truly Victorian patterns, please be aware that this is drafted to fit VERY LOOSELY to the body.
I’ve made up countless Truly Victorian patterns. They are generally very well fitted. I rarely bother with a muslin anymore because I know how to make TV patterns fit me.
I assumed (my error) this gown had the same standard TV fit. I just whipped it out of the fashion fabric. I ended up taking it in on all the seams and darts to achieve what I liked in a fitted line. If you want a loose tea gown — this is it. If you want a more fitted gown, make a muslin first and plan ahead to make alterations. Other than tailoring the fit, the only changes I made were to opt for the 3/4 sleeves and add several layers of lace trim. Incidently, because it is so loosely fitted, you can put a small bustle pad (about the size of a tiny pillow) underneath and it still lays flat across the back.
I have a few construction comments. These are not flaws in the pattern but, rather flaws between the chair, cutting table and sewing machine. I wanted a loose flowing look for this gown so I selected a very floppy, lightweight silk/rayon. It was a great idea. It was also impossible to work with. I think we often forget that ilk in the 1880s was very tightly woven and had a stiffer hand than any silk we have today (except maybe Dupioni which is a modern weave and not appropriate for the 19th century).
What I selected required a stiff interlining to keep enough shape in the top part of the gown to recall even a hint of the pattern piece’s shape.
My construction advice to other sewers is to cut your lining and interlining without the Watteau back. This will eliminate bunching. With three layers of fabric, double pleated, the end result looked like I’d developed a hunchback. The flowing nature of the fabric was completely lost. And, it was agony to sew through all those layers. I resorted to hand sewing most of the pleats down to the waist.
I would use this pattern again but, would select a medium weight fabric.