Collecting Vintage Today

by Judith Hollenberger, First published for the March/ April 2008 issue of Finery

Since the days of the $4 thrift store Victorian bodices are gone, what’s a person who wants to start collecting vintage clothing to do? First you must decide what you want to collect, for what purpose, and for how much money. Victorian? Art Deco? Display? Study? To wear? If you want pristine display examples of clothes more than 70 years old start saving up. A lot. If some flaws are acceptable you’ll have more options.

First, get educated. You have to know what you like and have some idea what you’re looking at. Most importantly, try to see and even touch actual clothes from the period you’re interested in. There are museums in the Bay Area, antique stores, and shows. Lacis is a Mecca for fine vintage items and gawking is free!

The annual Open House Fashion Show is wonderful. There are many GBACG members who collect vintage clothing. They may be willing to show you their collection. The more you are able to look at clothes and even handle them, the more you will pick up what ‘the real thing’ looks and feels like.

The May (2008) White Glove Costume Salon will be a perfect opportunity to handle vintage clothes and pick the brains of other collectors. Chat with people. Tell them that you are interested in clothing from a particular era. Antique dealers may not have anything in their stock but may know another store or dealer who does; or they may contact you if they come across something that might interest you.

Tell your friends, family, and co-workers. It’s amazing what people will bring to you. I once had a co-worker bring me a partially constructed Victorian bodice from her grandmother’s attic. Her family had no interest because it wasn’t complete. She brought it to me because she knew I’d treasure it.

Pick up a reference book like a Schiffer guide or Frances Grimble’s After a Fashion. Surf Ebay. Track auctions of items you like and see what they sell for. That will give you an idea of what the going rate is. If you see something that is REALLY cheap for what it is – be cautious. There are a lot of talented people making extremely authentic costumes. And a dealer or layperson may honestly think they have an artifact when they only have artifice. Remember that your greatest regret will usually be for an item you didn’t purchase. Good luck and you have my sympathy!

Editors’ note:  There are two large Bay Area vintage fashion sales that may be of interest:                                                                                                 

Alameda Point Vintage Fashion Fair
 Vintage Fashion Expo in San Francisco