19th century

Beyond the Muslin Gown

by Virginia Solomon, First published for the September/October 2011 issue of Finery Too many times have I heard this statement, “I can’t wear Regency dress, I don’t have the body for it.” While it is true that many Regency illustrations depict willowy young things in clinging white gowns, there are many existing gowns in museum collections and illustrations, that depict […]

DETAIL

The Conquistador Hat for Girls

by Thena MacArthur, First published for the May/June 2011 issue of Finery No, not talking about that metal helmet worn through the jungles of the Yucatan on the way to wiping out entire civilizations, I’m talking about a style of ladies’ hat and bonnet made popular in the 1880s. A useful fact about hats in the Bustle period that will […]

DETAIL

Bee in Your Bonnet?

by Thena MacArthur, First published for the March/April 2011 issue of Finery I am crazy for Victorian hats and bonnets. It should come as no surprise that I am writing about them: those who know me are probably rolling their eyes. For the sake of brevity, I will not comment on what passes these days for a “Victorian Lady’s Hat,” […]

DETAIL

Gilded Age Outerwear

by Shelley Monson, First published for the November/December 2010 issue of Finery The period known in America as the Gilded Age, roughly 1870 to the First World War, saw repeated radical changes in the silhouette of women’s clothing, moving through first bustle, natural form, second bustle, into the triangular shapes of the 1890s and the flowing curvilinear styles of the […]

DETAIL

Skirting Issues

by Catherine Scholar, First published for the November/December 2010 issue of Finery The most visibly striking part of mid-19th century women’s dress is the wide, crinoline-supported skirt. Seriously, what little girl hasn’t dreamed of waltzing around a ballroom like Cinderella in a big, poofy dress? Skirts of this period (1830-1865, although the hoop didn’t come in until 1857) aren’t difficult […]

DETAIL

Book Review: Elephant’s What?

by Betsy Hanes Perry, First published for the September/October 2010 issue of Finery Elephant’s Breath and London Smoke: Historic Colour Names, Definitions, & Uses, edited by Deb Salisbury, is a sorely needed resource; anybody who’s spent time reading old fashion magazines has been frustrated by descriptions such as “a dress of serpent-gray silk”, which would have been transparent to the […]

DETAIL

Accessories Make the (Victorian) Man

by Virginia Solomon, First published for the May/June 2010 issue of Finery Modern men have streamlined their attire so extremely that the only accessories ever seen are a handkerchief in the pocket and perhaps cuff links. Nothing else distinguishes one’s class, affluence and style. But in the Victorian/Edwardian Era, the numerous accessories one carried and wore could easily aid the […]

DETAIL

Film Review: Steadfast as Thou Art

by Gailynne Bouret, First published for the May/June 2010 issue of Finery The 2009 movie “Bright Star” depicts the doomed romance of poet John Keats and Fanny Brawne, the girl next door and the inspiration for some of his most memorable work. Director and writer Jane Campion and costume and set designer Janet Patterson treat us to a visually rich […]

DETAIL

A Bicycle Built for Fashion

by Sahrye Cohen, First published for the March/April 2010 issue of Finery The late Victorian era saw an increase in the middle class and the rise of a lifestyle in which, for the first time, many people had a certain amount of leisure time. A number of recreational activities became popular among the upper and middle classes including bathing, lawn-tennis, […]

DETAIL

Instant Zouaves!

by Liz Martin, First published for the November/December 2009 issue of Finery The Dickens Fair costume shop walks a fine line, balancing historical and theatrical needs while accommodating the skills of their volunteers. Following is a condensed workshop on modifying a modern women’s jacket into a mid-nineteenth century Zouave style. Women’s Zouave jackets were a variation of the bolero jacket […]

DETAIL