This corset takes a long time to make and is an enormous amount of work. I had to recut the gores several times. The instructions are clear and very well written. I was never frustrated by the instructions. I’m going to make it again and use coutil next time. The cording was really fun. I’ve never done it before. Getting the cord through the channels was a bit tricky and time-consuming. I used a tapestry needle; it worked well for the task. The difficulty level is about Medium; an Intermediate level sewer will be fine with this pattern.
Rated 4 out of 5
Sue Armstrong –
This pattern is wonderful. I had no problems. I followed the directions to create the gussets and they turned out great. I was stumped by the busk though. I ordered the board and didn’t realize I would have to complete it! Needless to say, I was in a hurry and needed the corset right away. I went to a hardware store and bought a scrap piece of Plexiglas slightly larger than the size I needed. At the store, I had it cut to the correct size and width. I was shown how to round the edges. I sanded the edges and it fit perfectly into the stay. The best part was that, after I wore the corset, the Plexiglas had “bend” as if it was a real busk. It really worked in a pinch.
Rated 3 out of 5
Janet Canning –
What can I say about Past Patterns corset patterns? I do very well with their patterns. The first soft corset I made some ten years ago was worn out completely. This pattern is very similar, however it has gussets and a busk insert. I attempted the corset that was the bridal version, without the extra layer and embroidery, I simply don’t have the hand control to do embroidery. I found there was a lot of historical data, and found that looking at the flat out diagram illustration of the boning placement better outlined it than the instructions. Now, I don’t know if this happened because there was so much historical data and the instructions printed on a big sheet. When this happens, I sometimes have to photocopy and keep separate the instructions so I can check them off. I did not like the way that the back closure was done. In order to make the single piece of fabric, which is a non-curve cut corset, fit the back. You must make 3 triangle cuts to clip for the curve and since that makes it so you must try to no fray it Fray Check) and since that is a stress point for lacing, it may need to be re-enforced quite a bit (i.e. do some button hole stitching). I found this made the otherwise pretty straight forward pattern get complicated. This method also makes it difficult to make the runners for the 2nd set of back stays that a corset should have for lacing. I did figure out a way to make a facing and turn it to the inside to make this part better, but at this point, it is no longer period corded, I have modernized the stays.
If you follow the period construction and the corded stay, you may be able to find a way to make the back work better. I find that when lacing, you have got to have at least two ridged stays in the back. I would not recommend this pattern unless you want to redesign it. I think that either Pattern #708, an 1840’s – 1880’s Corset or Pattern #705, the Early-to Mid-Nineteenth Century Stays would be better choices to get the about the same shape.
Allison Rolls –
This corset takes a long time to make and is an enormous amount of work. I had to recut the gores several times. The instructions are clear and very well written. I was never frustrated by the instructions. I’m going to make it again and use coutil next time. The cording was really fun. I’ve never done it before. Getting the cord through the channels was a bit tricky and time-consuming. I used a tapestry needle; it worked well for the task. The difficulty level is about Medium; an Intermediate level sewer will be fine with this pattern.
Sue Armstrong –
This pattern is wonderful. I had no problems. I followed the directions to create the gussets and they turned out great. I was stumped by the busk though. I ordered the board and didn’t realize I would have to complete it! Needless to say, I was in a hurry and needed the corset right away. I went to a hardware store and bought a scrap piece of Plexiglas slightly larger than the size I needed. At the store, I had it cut to the correct size and width. I was shown how to round the edges. I sanded the edges and it fit perfectly into the stay. The best part was that, after I wore the corset, the Plexiglas had “bend” as if it was a real busk. It really worked in a pinch.
Janet Canning –
What can I say about Past Patterns corset patterns? I do very well with their patterns. The first soft corset I made some ten years ago was worn out completely. This pattern is very similar, however it has gussets and a busk insert. I attempted the corset that was the bridal version, without the extra layer and embroidery, I simply don’t have the hand control to do embroidery. I found there was a lot of historical data, and found that looking at the flat out diagram illustration of the boning placement better outlined it than the instructions. Now, I don’t know if this happened because there was so much historical data and the instructions printed on a big sheet. When this happens, I sometimes have to photocopy and keep separate the instructions so I can check them off. I did not like the way that the back closure was done. In order to make the single piece of fabric, which is a non-curve cut corset, fit the back. You must make 3 triangle cuts to clip for the curve and since that makes it so you must try to no fray it Fray Check) and since that is a stress point for lacing, it may need to be re-enforced quite a bit (i.e. do some button hole stitching). I found this made the otherwise pretty straight forward pattern get complicated. This method also makes it difficult to make the runners for the 2nd set of back stays that a corset should have for lacing. I did figure out a way to make a facing and turn it to the inside to make this part better, but at this point, it is no longer period corded, I have modernized the stays.
If you follow the period construction and the corded stay, you may be able to find a way to make the back work better. I find that when lacing, you have got to have at least two ridged stays in the back. I would not recommend this pattern unless you want to redesign it. I think that either Pattern #708, an 1840’s – 1880’s Corset or Pattern #705, the Early-to Mid-Nineteenth Century Stays would be better choices to get the about the same shape.