This pattern is very straightforward. It was easy to make; however, the shoulder straps are a pain. I made the dress out of silk crepe. Because of the shape of the bodice (a wide shallow scoop), attaching the straps to the bodice, turning the fabric, and stitching was time-consuming and tricky. I ended up wrapping the bodice sections with a bit of thread which made the fabric narrow enough to fit the strap over. The front facing has darts; the bodice front does not have darts. I had to move the facing darts; they were too high for my torso. The skirt will surprise you if you don’t thoroughly and carefully read all the directions BEFORE you buy your fabric. This pattern lends itself to using contrast fabrics. The description on the package even suggests layering. Here’s the tricky bit: the pattern pieces are 2 rectangles. Each rectangle is 1/2 of the skirt. They don’t overlap; they aren’t layered. The pattern does not give different amounts of fabric needed for contrast top and bottom or for layers in the skirt. I made a layered skirt. I didn’t buy enough fabric. I had to figure out the calculations for how much fabric I would need and go out and buy more.
Rated 4 out of 5
Tara Malsberger –
Perhaps because I was overeager or a newer sewer, I didn’t understand the instructions. The instructions for the straps were, to me, unclear until you fiddle with them 2 or 3 times. I made a muslin, but misunderstanding the instructions, I didn’t include the straps, thinking they were just coverings to the strap part of the bodice to get the drapey effect. When I made the muslin I discovered that I had to re-cut the armholes, neckline, and lengthen the body by 3 inches. What a disaster! I made it work anyway, but it still wasn’t quite right and the beautiful fabric I used was the last in town. Lesson learned: If you’re going to the trouble of making a muslin, don’t cut corners, make the whole dress!
Karen Tully –
This pattern is very straightforward. It was easy to make; however, the shoulder straps are a pain. I made the dress out of silk crepe. Because of the shape of the bodice (a wide shallow scoop), attaching the straps to the bodice, turning the fabric, and stitching was time-consuming and tricky. I ended up wrapping the bodice sections with a bit of thread which made the fabric narrow enough to fit the strap over. The front facing has darts; the bodice front does not have darts. I had to move the facing darts; they were too high for my torso. The skirt will surprise you if you don’t thoroughly and carefully read all the directions BEFORE you buy your fabric. This pattern lends itself to using contrast fabrics. The description on the package even suggests layering. Here’s the tricky bit: the pattern pieces are 2 rectangles. Each rectangle is 1/2 of the skirt. They don’t overlap; they aren’t layered. The pattern does not give different amounts of fabric needed for contrast top and bottom or for layers in the skirt. I made a layered skirt. I didn’t buy enough fabric. I had to figure out the calculations for how much fabric I would need and go out and buy more.
Tara Malsberger –
Perhaps because I was overeager or a newer sewer, I didn’t understand the instructions. The instructions for the straps were, to me, unclear until you fiddle with them 2 or 3 times. I made a muslin, but misunderstanding the instructions, I didn’t include the straps, thinking they were just coverings to the strap part of the bodice to get the drapey effect. When I made the muslin I discovered that I had to re-cut the armholes, neckline, and lengthen the body by 3 inches. What a disaster! I made it work anyway, but it still wasn’t quite right and the beautiful fabric I used was the last in town. Lesson learned: If you’re going to the trouble of making a muslin, don’t cut corners, make the whole dress!