The Great Pattern Review
Old World Enterprises
#801 - Empire Gown
Suzanne Cahall - Not Recommended
Like most of their patterns, it was completely unusable. The pattern pieces didn't match; the instructions were scanty at best; and it was definitely mis-sized because I ordered the size according to their chart. I have been sewing for thirty years and I have never encountered anything like this.
#821 - 1825 Romantic Gown
Sally Norton - Recommended
I used this pattern initially to make a Regency pelisse. The muslin went together easily. This is not a difficult pattern; there are few pattern pieces. The bodice collar as shown in the drawing of the pattern appears to be very complex; it isn't. It is only a long curved piece of fabric that sits on top of the pelisse bodice. The elaborate trimming shown in the illustration is not included in the instructions; instead there are some terse suggestions for trimming. Once I had the muslin together, I saw that the construction was not historically accurate for a Regency pelisse. The sleeves are modern construction; they are eased into the shoulder. They should be set into the back in an oval line, creating the illusion of the small back. The center back should have diagonal seaming creating the diamond pattern in the center back. These are two of the key elements in the construction of the Regency bodice.
I had my muslin which fit perfectly. I then studied the photograph of the back of an "American Pelisse circa 1807" on page 19 in Dress from Three Centuries: Wadsworth Atheneum(Hartford, 1976). It's a great photo for reference and clearly shows the back seaming. To recut my pattern pieces for the back of the bodice, I studied the scale pattern pieces for "Draft 32, White Cotton Empire Dress c. 1808" in History of Costume by Blanche Payne (Harper Collins, 1965). This worked very well. The final garment is quite authentic. I opted for a more tailored look based on Pelisses I had seen in Bath and did not add much trim.
The Old World Enterprises Romantic Gown pattern is fine if you want a pattern that is easy to make and creates the appearance of the Regency era and into the 1820s. If you are interested in correct construction for the era, either use this pattern only as a muslin 'to start' as I did or go directly to the "1818-23 A Pelisse from Gloucester Museum" (Patterns of Fashion 1 by Janet Arnold).
#832-1 - 1830 Romantic Male Suit
Lorraine Carson - Not Recommended
Horrible. Do not waist your money. I was never able to get it to work. The pieces are still in a pile on the floor.
Cathy Raymond - Not Recommended
I was unusually lucky. Despite my total lack of male tailoring experience, I actually got this coat to fit my husband pretty well from shoulder to waist. Even the sleeves came out fine. The fit below the waist was a nightmare. The skirts hang on him in bizarre shapes; like something out of Tim Burton's The Nightmare Before Christmas. The muslin I prepared gave no clue that is would be an issue. If I hadn't read the reviews of Old World Patterns on the Great Pattern Review, I would have assumed my inexperience was to blame.
Thea Kuziemski - Not Recommended
I would not recommend it to anyone. The instructions are appauling and the pieces don't fit right. I tried to make this pattern for one of my first commisioned pieces. It ended up being a 3 month delay and I did it only for the cost of the materials. The only way I ever finished the project was to throw the instructions away and let my creativity take over. (Besides, aren't 1830's trousers supposed to be broadfall, not fly button?) So overall, the instructions are a pain and it is not period correct.
#832-2 - 1830 Romantic Male Shirt
Jeannie Caffro
Except for the fact that the front tucked section was too short for the pattern as drafted, this pattern worked quite well for me; but I would not recommend it for a beginning seamstress/tailor as the lengthening of the pleated piece is not something they would necessarily be able to do easily.
Elizabeth Zumfelde
After making a couple of mock-up fronts I made two discoveries. First, I ignored the sewing lines drawn on the pattern piece. The shirt front has all of these pleats, I just sewed them at 3/8" instead of their lines. I also had to add seam allowance to three of the four sides. The second thing was I added seam allowance to the pattern wherever it was not written on the piece that it had seam allowance. This company is very bad about seam allowances. I understand that they make their patterns off surviving garments, but they should at least true them up and be consistent with their seam allowance.
#861-1 - 1860's Male Dress Shirt
Sheri Jurnecka - Not Recommended
The instructions are poorly written. The neck runs large. I don't like the result.
#863 - 1860's Crinoline Ball Gown
Rachel Franklin - Recommended,
for someone who likes to ignore directions.
This dress works fairly well if you just leave the directions in the envelope and put it together as a normal dress. I full-lined the bodice, as I found it MUCH easier to put the lace/fabric ruffle around the neckline (which I raised about 2 inches) that way rather than flat-lined. The notions requirements don't accurately state how many buttons you will need if you do the "pillows" down the chevron skirt decorations, or use the collar (which I left off). The sleeve was, as in all Old World Enterprises patterns, too small to fit into the arms-eye. I started by adding 2 inches to each edge of the pattern piece and adjusting from there. Also, the topstitching on the sleeve is a rather messy way of putting the lace/ruffle in. All in all, the dress the turned out fine, but it took so much altering the pattern looks completely different than when I started!
#881 - 1880's Bustle Walking Gown
Janet Canning - Not Recommended
The pattern pieces do not fit together. The instructions are incomplete and inaccurate. The bodice is difficult to fit. The pattern pieces contain markings and notes that are not explained in the instructions. I had to to take the bodice apart and rework it several times. Janet is wearing the dress in this photo.
#881-4 - 1880's Bustle Female Everyday Outerwrap
Janet Canning - Not Recommended
The pattern pieces did not match up. It was frustrating trying to get the lining to match the fashion fabric correctly so that the cape could be pulled inside out after the lining was attached. It had to be redone several times to get it right. This is a simple garment and should not have been so much hard work.
#882 - 1880's Bustle Ball Gown
Lorraine Carson - Not Recommended
The pattern pieces do not match. They will not fit together. You'll just have to drape the pieces on your dress form, pin, adjust, re-pin, again and again until you get a correct fit. You cannot succeed if you attempt to follow the instructions. You'll have to create the rear of the skirt by draping until you get the desired effect. Michele Gustafson is wearing the dress made by Lorraine in the photo on the right.
Jeannie Caffro - Not Recommended
I can't say enough how disgusted I was with this pattern. I bought it to use for my wedding gown and my bridesmaids' dresses, and the only reason they turned out looking great was that I redrafted the whole bodice basically from scratch and then threw out the directions sent with the pattern.
Sue Pickens - Not Recommended
I have been sewing for 40 years and am so frustrated with these patterns that I am ready to throw them in the trash. The pattern pieces do not fit, the directions are incomplete at best and anyone planning to try them is in for a big disappointment.
Elizabeth Merritt - Not Recommended
When ordering this pattern on the telephone, I was warned to watch out for the extra pattern piece. So basically it was flawed from the beginning. After I think I figured out what the extra piece was, the bodice still didn't fit together very well. The shoulder straps are too long. The armholes are much too large. The suggestion of flat-lining the bodice and not lining it leaves raw edges poking out at the top and bottom edges of the bodice. The directions and the envelope description at one point refer to some piece of the skirt that doesn't really exist (never did figure that one out), and the points at which the back bustle should be connected to the underskirt do not look right when connected. Yuck.
#891 - 1890's Male Casual Shirt
John E. LaBarre - Not Recommended
All in all this is a poor pattern.This pattern has the following problems:
#1 Snap placement on pattern pieces were marked wrong, they ended up being off the edge of the finished piece,
as were the button-hole makings.
#2 Alignment of front piece to rear were off by 1/2 inch.
#3 Sleeve opening ended up being almost too small to wear.
#4 Finished collar base was too short and had to gather yoke to make fit.
#5 Finished collar was too short in length to go around collar base correctly.
#6 Cuffs were a little too long for the sleeves.
#7 No pattern piece was provided for sleeve end.
#8 No mention was made for adding interfacing to cuffs.
#9 Instructions were poor at best.
#892-1 - 1890's Male Evening Suit
Mari Jo Young - Not Recommended
It was lots of hard work to make a nice jacket. The directions were next to worthless. I had to remake several pieces that were wrong. After a lot of hard work redoing the pattern, I have used it with great success. I don't recommend this pattern unless you have a lot of experience drafting patterns, a lot of patience and even more time. The men complain because the pattern has no pockets. Consider adding them in the pants and inside breast pocket. Through the vest pattern out; it is a waste of time and not worth the considerable effort it takes to remake and fit the pattern.
#892 - 1890's Ball Gown
Pat Shaw - Not Recommended
This pattern pieces do not match. Two costumers helped put this dress together. The patterns from Old World Enterprises are not worth buying. They are particularly unsuitable for a beginner. Pat is wearing the finished dress in the photo on the right.
Janice Jones
In order to get a correct fit in the bodice, I had to adjust it in several places. The neck opening runs large. There is a lot of detail work in this dress. The bodice is completely lined and boned and the center front has beading embellishment. The lower skirt was difficult to attach and required repeated adjustments to get to lay correctly. The finished skirt is very heavy. The finished gown is stunning and worth the effort.
Sue Pickens - Not Recommended
I belong to the Old West Society of Minnesota and was hoping to wear the 1890's ballgown to our Christmas banquet. I do not have the time to remake the pattern pieces, which is what you will have to do. I wish I could get my money back.
Mari Jo Young - Not Recommended
AWFUL! The directions are poor, telling you to match darts that don't exist, talking about one pattern piece with an illustration of another. The pieces don't fit together. The instructions tell you that if the shoulders won't stay up, you should add elastic. Obviously, this is a design problem the pattern drafter couldn't solve. This pattern should never have been released. I had to remake several of the pieces. I eventually ended up with a nice looking dress but, only because I am a professional tailor. I would never use it again.
#893 - 1890's Gibson Girl
Cornelia Tegart - Recommended
This pattern includes a blouse and walking skirt, but I sewed the blouse only. I did not have too much difficulty sewing the blouse. I took my time and practiced doing pleats beforehand. I also did a practice sleeve before I did the real one, to ensure fit. The leg o'mutton sleeves are beautiful, and the whole blouse is very authentic.
Lisa Swehla - Recommended
The skirt is incredibly straight forward, and well fitted. The blouse isn't entirely flattering because there is a good deal of fullness pulled in with a belt, but it did create the period effect I wanted. The sleeves are lovely, although I think there might be a drafting error in the armhole or sleeve that I had to solve. Nothing earth shattering. The patterns are printed on VERY sturdy brown paper. I can't say I used the directions closely enough to be able to comment on them, but i liked the cartridge pleating, boning, hand bound buttonhole instructions.
Annette Stubbs - Recommended for intermediate level.
I found the skirt very easy to make, with a few gathers at the back. It drapes very nicely. The blouse was a little more difficult. I had a hard time adjusting the collar and shoulders to fit. But, I didn't take a lot of time to tailor it. The instructions were fairly easy to follow; but I recommend measuring the bottom portion of the sleeve to verify you arm width. The sleeves are lovely, and the complete outfit gives the illusion of a very small waist.
#894 - 1890's Bicycle Suit
Annette Stubbs - Highly Recommended for intermediate level sewers.
I loved the way this suit turned out. I found the instructions fairly easy to follow. The jacket required very little tailoring and this was only needed in the lower sleeve pattern. The lapels were easy and the front buttoned nicely. The bloomers are very slimming irregardless of their design and are extremely comfortable. I made this in a medium weight brown herringbone and the material worked well with the pattern.